Wednesday, November 29, 2017

GOAL!

This weekend, I celebrated a friend's birthday, celebrated Morocco's World Cup qualification, and traveled to a small mountain town to look at rugs.

International students have a special bond. We are all thrown into a similar situation: new country, new language, being the outsider, and in some cases being terrified of the events that will occur during our first month. This is why it is so important to build a community that supports, listens, and celebrates together. Yes, we also have integrated and made some amazing Moroccan friends but we still created and maintained an inclusive community because we are all in similar situations and have the ability to relate to the struggles of being abroad. Many students have had birthdays during our time in Morocco. It can be a difficult time because some people will miss their family and friends from back home a little extra on that day. For this reason, we have gathered together and celebrated birthdays in little ways. For one friend, in particular, we had a little gathering and bought macaroons and candles. At this point in time, you may have already realized that I am not the best photographer.
Do not be alarmed, this is not a box on fire. This is a box filled with delicious macaroons. She is blowing out the three candles that we were able to secure. 

Later that night, some of us met a few Moroccan friends at a popular cafe in town to watch the World Cup Qualifier for Morocco. In every culture and country, sports can be a sensitive topic; therefore, it is important to set some ground rules. When teams lose a match, there is a possibility of riots--like I said this is conducive for any country. As a foreign exchange student, you do not want to chance being placed in a negative situation. My friends and I decided, if there is 10 minutes left and the team is losing, then we leave. Fortunately, we did not need to use this rule because Morocco won. It was the most amazing sight, all of Ifrane was alive, singing, and celebrating in the streets(at least that's how it seemed in the moment).
Moroccan Tea is a must when watching a soccer match.
In the morning, a bunch of International students and I traveled to a rural location in order to see and purchase from the famous Atlas Moutain Women's Rug Association. Before the tour and shopping, we were provided with the most amazing breakfast--Mesemen, Harsha, and Moroccan Tea.  All of these rugs are handmade and the women do not follow any specific patterns. All of the patterns that you see are from their minds. If you ever find yourself in Morocco, I highly recommend that you take the trip to this little town that's 30 minutes past Azrou. It is a beautiful drive, but bring medicine if you get motion sick easily because the roads are quite turbulent and there are many switch-backs. 



You Won't Grow if You Stay in Your Comfort Zone


"Life begins at the end of your comfort zone"

~Neale Donald Walsch

As a foreign woman in Morocco, typically situations are more comfortable if you travel with a male or in a group. Don’t get me wrong, I have fallen in love with this country and the generous, loving people who live in Morocco. However, as an outsider, it is always better to air on the side of caution. I look very different from the average individual on the street or in public spaces. The combination of my green eyes and light curly hair draws a lot of attention—I know that it is my hair and eyes because those are usually the subject of the random comments. Therefore, I mentally prepare myself for the possibility of drawing attention every time that I leave the campus grounds.

I love running, it calms my nerves and keeps my thoughts grounded—plus it is an easy way to stay healthy. For the first two months here, I have restricted myself to running on a treadmill in the University gym. I do not enjoy running on treadmills because I find it boring. I have, embarrassingly, been afraid to run outside of campus because I do not know the area and I do not want to draw attention to myself. As I mentioned previously, just being in a public space will draw unwanted attention because people are curious and there’s nothing wrong with being curious but it makes me uncomfortable none-the-less. I consider myself the wallflower type; therefore, any attention is unwanted in my opinion. About a month ago, I got over my absurd fears of being in the public eye. I finally decided to go running around Ifrane (the town that I live in). I started off running only when I could find a buddy, but after a few positive experiences and after learning the various routes that I can safely run, I have been running with or without a buddy. DON’T WORRY MOM and DAD I AM 100% SAFE. I take the normal precautions that are important no matter your location: I tell people approximately where I will be running, when to expect my return, and I never run at the same time of day. Yes, I have had a few uncomfortable situations, but they were quick to end.  On the contrary, have I witnessed some beautiful scenery and met some kind people.




My favorite route passes a beautiful park. This particular route, in my opinion, requires a running buddy for safety precautions—you never know if you might twist an ankle. On an average day, this route does not have very many people or cars. However, on Friday afternoon the park was filled with families out having picnics and barbeques. It was awesome to see the park in use.
                Fall is a gorgeous time in Ifrane, the temperature does not get too cold during the day and all of the trees are various shades of yellow. The best way to enjoy the scenery is by walking or running through it. My runs have been beneficial for witnessing the beauty and very beneficial in learning the roads of the city. I used to run and have a general idea of what direction I needed to go in order to return to the University. Now, I run and know generally, where I am—what point markers are in proximity to my location. The one negative prospect of running long distances six day a week is that I obtain some large blisters on my feet. 

      
















 The two pictures below illustrate my friends and I walking to the city center for a little girls night out. We can get soup for ten dirham which is about one dollar (the particular name of the soup we get is Hariria). This is my favorite meal to get when I go out to eat. You are given bread with your soup and this combination is very filling. 
 
Yes, sometimes there are random donkeys on the side of the road. Welcome to Morocco. :)



Thursday, November 9, 2017

ركوب الامواج في مدينة تاغازوت Surfing in Taghazout

We heard from other students that Agadir was a trip worth making and that we should visit the city. We decided to take the opportunity from this past long weekend to make the 12-hour plus trip. Three of us decided to go on the long adventure, and it was definitely an adventure.

We had to take a Grand Taxi to Fes so that we could catch a bus from Fes to Agadir. We discovered that three other girls were also planning on going to Fes at the same time. This was perfect because you need six people to fill a Grand Taxi. I sat in the front seat and attempted to begin reading material for my upcoming presentation. I was about ten minutes into the book when I realized that I would not be able to continue if I wanted to keep my stomach through the windy mountain roads. So I stopped reading and talked to the driver, by talk I mean a conversation that I could conduct with very simple baby classical Arabic. Apparently, the driver thought that I knew more Arabic than I did. We made two stops in small villages; he had an errand to run. He turned to me and told me he would return, and I think he said he had to deliver something. I really only understood the gist of what he was telling me but that was all I really needed. He was picking up bags of cement dust for a friend, or family, in another village. I was completely onboard with being able to see the architecture and beautiful sights of another village. This, my friends, is one of the many reasons that if you have a specific deadline that you cannot miss, you should leave add about three or more hours onto the time you THINK that it will take you to get somewhere. We were not in a hurry because we left with this type of situation in mind. Instead of it being stressful, it was a pleasant surprise. Once we got to Fes, we only had a couple of hours before our bus would depart. We decided to find a cafe or restaurant to buy tea and wait. The restaurant we chose looked very expensive and fancy from the outside, but the prices were very reasonable. My friends ordered hot chocolate and tea with milk; I ordered a black coffee. In a lot of places, it is normal to receive a small bottle of water with your espresso, it had been a long time since I experienced that, so I was inclined to take a picture.
We took our time consuming our beverages and conversing. After we finished our drinks, we still had quite a bit of time, so we ordered food in order to maintain our welcomeness. We talked to the waiter and soon the entire staff was intrigued by us. The restaurant wasn't busy so they had time to all talk to us and hear our background. Come to think of it, we are a pretty diverse looking group; in addition, we look relatively young. They were extremely nice and wished us a good trip and luck with our studies. We left for the bus station and soon started our 12-hour journey. Since the bus ride wasn't interesting, and I don't want to relive that miserable experience, I won't waste your time writing about it. (One thing, if you get motion sick easily, bring medicine if you plan to travel by bus or taxi in Morocco).

12 hours later
It is 6:00 in the morning, we are tired, in need of showers, and hungry. Here we are, in a new city, cold, and trying to navigate the transportation with the little Arabic skill that we have because no one speaks English. We finally come to the conclusion that the 'hotel', really a hostel, that we booked is in fact not in Agadir, but in a city 30 minutes away by car. For some reason, we had it in our minds that we could just walk around the city and explore until our 3:00pm check-in. Becuase who would be tired after a 12-hour bus ride? Crazy thought, right? Well, we were tired and still under the impression that we were staying at a hotel. This would mean we could approach the desk and ask for an early check-in. So we obtained a Grand taxi ride to the actual city that we were staying in, Taghazout, and went to the doorstep of the place were had booked. Upon arriving we discovered that it was not a hotel and that there was no way inside due to the earliness. So we sat on a bench outside overlooking the ocean, ate the bread that my roommate's parents had given me the day before and contemplated our next move. We watched the sunrise and then decided to make the trek to the beach.
The beach was decently close, but we took a shortcut through the brush and sand, then walked on the side of the road. Miserable, but also laughing at the situation, we walked along. 
 We arrived at the beach, took off our shoes and walked around. As we walked I noticed one dog following us. I have this, good or bad habit (it's up for debate) of looking anything or anyone in the eye that is in my zone. It is my way of nonverbally saying "I see you, we can be friends, but if you are a threat, I see you". Well, one dog became two dogs and before I knew it, we had five dogs following us. Turns out they were friendly and they became our buddies; as we walked around the beach, they played and I played with them a little.
 

My friends laugh and say that I became queen of the dogs because everywhere that I went, they were a step behind. I love the beach and how it puts my heart and soul in a peaceful state. I was very pleased to be on the beach. In fact, I think after a while we all were. We ended up practically living on the beach for that day.



We saw giant seagulls and people at work taking something off of the rocks during the low tide. Soon we realized that the three loafs of bread that we shared at 6:30 am would not hold us over for long, so we decided to find a cafe for breakfast. We saw a fancy cafe, which we drank tea and coffee, but upon looking at the prices for food decided that we needed to find a different location. I saw a little fenced-in plot of beach with a shack on it. There was a sign that said "Snack Shack". I looked like just the place that I wanted to eat. We were on an adventure, so why not go for the place that looks adventurous. We set our backpacks down. I realized we look like true broke, college-student, travelers. All that we had with us was on our backs and we looked, or at least felt, a little rough. We were still trying to make a final decision as a group when the owners called down to us, "do you want breakfast?" That was our final deciding factor, they spotted us so we couldn't just walk away. 


 I am never surprised by finding the best food and hospitality in the smallest 'hole-in-the-wall' places. The people who owned the little area were extremely sweet. In fact, they set up the table, chairs, and umbrella upon our arrival because they weren't open yet. They asked us what we wanted and, not seeing a menu, I asked what they had. They listed some foods, but omelet caught our attention. I dumbly asked, 'do you also have bread, houbz?' (Arabic for bread). He laughed and said, of course, we have bread. When they brought out the 'omelet' it was not at all what we were expecting; it was even better. It was like a breakfast tajine. The only way to eat such a dish is with your hands. You use the bread to scoop up the contents of the plate. It was the best omelet that I have ever had and quite possibly the best breakfast that I've had in Morocco. We sat and told them of our travels and listened to their stories of the beach. Then we paid and walked some more.
 We climbed what is known as Devil's rock and after taking pictures, we sat at the top and did homework.


 Soon I realized that the tide had come in. We couldn't see the crossing point from where we were so we went to the other side. The tide had definitely come in. the spot that we had crossed was now under a little more than two feet of water. We had our backpacks with all of our stuff, including laptops and library books. I observed our situation and concluded that the tide was not at its highest point. Not knowing how long it would take for the tide to reseede, I decided that we needed to cross now or possibly wait for a very long time. 

We held our backpacks over our heads and crossed over. We made it over with our bags unscathed, but we were quite wet. I convinced them to go into the water since we were already halfway wet. We put our bags in the shack of one of our new friends (one of the men that served us breakfast and we talked with for a long time). After our things were safe and secure, we ran into the water. It's like we were children again, running around, body surfing the waves. I was in my sports bra, a tank top, and spandex because I didn't think to bring a swimsuit to what I had been told was a very conservative country. Yes, the clothing attire is generally very conservative in Morocco, but some cities--like the beach towns--are less conservative and women wear bikinis. My friends, on the other hand, didn't bring swimsuits or workout clothes, so they entered in their dresses. It was really amazing and fun. After we had our fair share of messing around in the water we laid out my travel towel and all sat on it to dry off.  As we were sitting there, our friend Hassan (the snack shack and surf shack owner) sent his friend over with tea. He sat down with us and we shared tea and convesed and pet the dogs that came back for a visit. 

It was finally time past time for checkin. We made the trek back to the hostel and checked- in and promptly went for showers. Most of the restaurants and cafes closed at sunset, which was at 6:30pm. The hostel offered dinner for 70 dirhams (7 dollars). We thought that was pretty expensive, but the food that was served was all you can eat and consist of diverse, amazing tasting foods. There was a salad with fresh vegetables (the first that I've had since being in Morocco), a giant Chicken and Vegetable Couscous, fruit, and bread. I think it was definitely worth the price.  


 Our room had a small view of the ocean and was on the third floor. I was a very small, cute neighborhood. 

Our room was definitely styled like a camp, bunk beds and all. It was comfortable and suited us for the night that we spent there. Honestly, by the time we went to sleep we were so tire that we could have slept almost anywhere. 

What's better is the view of the sunset from the common balcony. This place was probably one of the coolest places that I've stayed. There was a pool table, people having jam sessions and playing instruments, and a perfect view of the amazing sunset. 
 
The next day, as we ate breakfast, I was convinced to take surf lessons and join the beach hopping journey.

The people at this hostel were so nice. They helped me pick out a surf board and a wet suit (which we found later was slightly too big for me). Then we packed into two vehicles and set out for our first beach.
 It was really interesting to see how they chose their beaches. We stopped at a couple of beaches, perched on the edge of a cliff, and sat there for a few minutes. They filmed the waves and looked out into the deeper ocean. Unsatisfied with the wave and current patterns, we went to the next beach. Eventually, we found a beach with good waves and brought all of the stuff down. I wasn't sure what to expect from this surf lesson, but I definitely wasn't expecting to be able to surf real-sized waves. We started on the sand, he spend about five minutes telling me the basics of surfing and the background, then about five minutes was allocated to teaching me the proper way to stand up. Before I knew it he was having me catch my own waves; he would count down and then I was supposed to go. These were just the little white waves by the beach. I practiced for an hour or so, then we ate the lunch they had packed for us. After lunch we went to another beach. At this beach he took me out to the big waves, where all of the actual surfers were. I was intimidated but he kept reminding me to relax and feel the waves. After a few comical fails I finally caught my first wave and successfully road it for a little bit. It was such an amazing feeling to be riding a wave; somehow it was also relaxing. A full day of learning to surf ended with two really successful waves and a lot of 'almost' successful waves. Either way, it was really amazing. I plan to surf again when the opportunity arises and I highly recommend it to everyone. 

Morocco never ceases to amaze me. I never, in a million years, would have thought that I would learn how to surf in Morocco--let alone be in my make-shift swim suit on a Moroccan beach. I've learned that one should never make empty assumptions about a place until you have seen it first hand. And always be open to new experiences!

Wednesday, November 8, 2017

اصدقاء في مدينة فاس Friends in Fes

A friend an I spent the weekend in Fes and let me tell you, Fes is a much larger city than what I first thought. I explored parts of Fes that I didn't know existed before that weekend. 

Our trip began at the Grand Taxi Station in Ifrane. We sat on a bench waiting for enough people to fill the taxi. Once we squeezed into the taxi with four other people (plus the driver), we were on our way to Fes. 



Upon arriving, we looked for the hostel that we booked. Luckily it was very close to the front gate of the Medina because Medinas can be tricky to navigate when you don't know where you are going.  We climbed up the steep stairs and entered a room that was tucked away on the side of the staircase to check in. This room was exactly what two young, broke, college travelers need: a bed, a bathroom, and it was inexpensive. I think one of the most intriguing differences that has taken some adjusting is the bathroom situations. Some bathrooms had "squatty potties." These type of bathrooms are generally found in public places (restaurants, rest stops, etc.). A couple things to know when you are using a public bathroom: 1.) bring toilet paper just in case, 2.) carry spare change!  So most bathrooms do not have toilet paper. However, the bathrooms are generally extremely clean because there is a bathroom attendant (I don't know the correct terminology for that person). Sometimes that bathroom attendant will have a certain price to use the bathroom, but in most cases, they will not ask for money but common courtesy is to give however many dirhams (the currency in Morocco) that you can spare. Now, back to the hostel. Most hostels that we have stayed at do not have a separate place for the shower. As you can see in the poor quality video that I took, the sink, shower, and toilet are all in one room. The bathrooms are generally not that small, but the basic construction has been about the same. 
 I didn't actually take this picture because I would find it very odd if I saw someone taking a picture of a toilet, but this is generally what one will see around Morocco. Luckily, because I am used to 'western' style toilets, one can usually find a 'western' style toilet in most places. 

Once we were settled in the hostel we came to the realization that we were quite hungry. It was Friday and in Morocco, Friday means Couscous (AKA Couscous Friday). Every restaurant cooks a lot of couscous just for Fridays, in fact, it is the only day that the campus restaurant has couscous.
This (Moroccan Tea and Couscous) is one of my favorite sights (other than Tajine). In an attempt to discover the best couscous in the neighborhood, we asked our hosts for help. We followed Aisha through the maze of the Medina, the first place was closed, so we followed her some more until she found another place that was open. We are not sure if it was the 'best' in the neighborhood but it sure was amazingly delicious! We walked around the area for a bit and then went back to the hostel where we shared tea with the wonderful host. He was extremely welcoming and we had many great conversations with him. He even bought us this fruit from a local stand and we proceeded to talk and eat the mystery fruit. (I am still not sure what it is called but it was good!)

 Later that night we met with one our friends and her family who came from France to visit. We found a roof-top restaurant to enjoy dinner. I wasn't very hungry because at this point I was recovering from food poisoning (Don't worry Mom and Dad I was fine). In case you are wondering, I got the food poisoning from a meal at the University, not street food. Thus far, the street food has tasted amazing and I haven't had any problems at all with it. 


The hostel owners found an abandoned kitten, they named him Mishmish and took him in. I think he was a wonderful addition to the beautiful terrace. He was super small, delicate and loving.
The next morning we had breakfast on the terrace, it was included in the very reasonable price of the room. Aisha brought us orange juice, tea, bread, cream cheese (or something similar), and jelly.

It was honestly a perfect breakfast with a wonderful scene.

Our host was generous enough to set up a tour of Fes with one of his friends for us. He drove us around Fes to different touristy places where he would wait for us until we got our fill of pictures and sightseeing. He was very plesant and patient.
 Before we went off on our tour, we decided to, as I put it, be local grandpas. Every city that we have traveled to, there are always older men sitting in cafe chairs that face the street. They sit there for hours drinking coffee, converse, and people watch. I really admire the time they take to relax. So we decided to give it a try as many times as we can. That morning we sat, drank coffee, converse with some locals, and watched as all the tourists shuffled into the tiny Medina streets. I understand why they do this, it is relaxing and entertaining to people watch. After we finished our coffees we met up with our tour guide.
iThe frst stop was the gates to one of the many palaces throughout Morocco. It is not pictured in the image above, but these gates are heavily guarded. I think the guards were very amused with us, they probably seen a lot of tourists taking pictures by the gates, but we had, per say, a little skip in our step because we were excited to be out and sightseeing. I say they were amused and entertained by us because I could see them smiling and trying, but not succeeding, not to laugh. Of course, realizing how silly we must look prancing around with our cameras out, I just smiled back.  After that, we ran across the busy street and jumped into the car. The next stop was on the top of a hill that overlooked the entire Medina. My pictures do not give justice to how amazing the view was. 

 
 
This spot not only overlooked the city, but it also had some old ruins. No one could tell us what the ruins were from, but one can imagine the magnificence and power they once held overlooking Fes.

The next stop was the Ceramic making building. We received a tour of the shop. We got to see, accompanied with an explanation of every step in the ceramic making process. I really enjoyed seeing the process, I love art, but I love watching the creation of art even more. One of the most amazing parts of teh process is that fact that they use old olive pits to heat the fire. It is really amazing how this society seems to use all of the olive tree for many different uses: heat, food, art, etc.





 Our last stop in Fes was the Tannery--where all of the leather products in Fes are created. As one can imagine, the Tannery reeks, at some points, to the untrained nose, it is unbearable. Fortunately for our noses and comfort, the tour guides at the front door greeted us with branches of mint. I kept the mint branch close to my nose for most of the tour. It was really interesting to see how the famous leather of Fes is cleaned, colored, and shaped. My pictures are not nearly as good as the ones that you will find upon googling or looking at Instagram, but I tried. I honestly respect people who are able to capture the full extent of the tannery.





 

 The people who work at the Tannery also live right next to or near the Tannery. If one spends time watching the people work, you will notice some children running around periodically. 

I now understand why everyone tells me that Fes is the place to buy leather. 
Fes is an amazingly diverse and large city, but I am very thankful that we did this particular trip at the end of October becasue Fes is a lot like Phoenix in that you don't want to be walking around outside for half of the year because the temperatures get to ridiculously high degrees.